The whispers of the mountains had beckoned me for eight years, ever since I first ventured into frequent travels to the hills and embarked on small hikes with friends. But it was in May 2022 when I found myself standing at the top of Mt Friendship, crossing the 5000-meter mark. At that moment, a thought took root – I decided that I needed to go deeper, learn the intricacies of mountaineering, and hone my skills. The road ahead seemed long, but I was ready for a true beginning.
My journey into the world of mountaineering began not as a grand plan but as a manifestation of my passion for mountains and a stroke of luck. My desire to explore deepened during my time with one of India’s premier mountaineering companies, Boots & Crampons. While trekking, and working within the marketing and operations team at B&C, I soaked up an immense amount of knowledge from my experienced seniors and mentors. This encompassed not only the nuances of mountaineering and trekking in the Himalayas but also insights into the business side of this adventure-driven industry. However, I had realized that it was time for some formal training.
Navigating through the websites of various institutes and scrutinizing the courses they offered, I narrowed down my choices to two renowned names: NIM and HMI. However, the extensive waitlist at NIM Uttarkashi redirected my path towards the esteemed Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI) in Darjeeling, hailed as one of the oldest and finest mountaineering institutes globally. After a wait of 1.5 years, I finally found myself standing at the doorstep of the illustrious Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI).
I walked into HMI with a mindset of hard work and little expectation. Yet, what unfolded was an intense, vast, and tougher journey than I could have fathomed. Sixty trainees, 54 boys, 6 girls, and 4 international participants formed a motley crew of aspiring mountaineers. My past trekking and climbing experiences proved to be a beacon of support, but nothing prepared me for the rigors that lay ahead.
Picture this: a month that unfolds like a riveting adventure novel. The BMC at HMI isn’t just a course; it’s a saga that kicks off with physical training and lectures that unravel the mysteries of mountains. Gears, rope knots, and mountain essentials become our daily lexicon. A trekking test, a rock climbing odyssey, and then, the pièce de résistance – fifteen days amid the cradle of mountains, embracing glacier training, mountaineering gear wizardry, pitching tents, climbing ice walls, learning the orchestration of rescue techniques and much more.
The institute’s heartbeat is the HMI Base Camp at 14500ft, where we found ourselves in a communal hut, over 50 boys sharing tales, laughter, and the anticipation of what lay ahead. Days melted into nights as we trekked to Glaciers and Advanced Base Camp’s rock faces, to embrace the art of climbing, jumaring & rappelling.
Accompanying me on this journey was a seasoned friend from Himachal, Basant (We call him Santa), a mountaineering veteran of ten years. Not surprisingly, he emerged as the technical maestro of our batch, a living testament to the transformative power of experience.
In the realm of mountain endeavors, preparation is key. Physical and mental conditioning is utterly significant before any such journey. My mornings were filled with jogs, weighted backpack walks, and the rhythmic clink of gym equipment. Articles and youtube videos became my guides, providing a glimpse into the challenges that awaited. However, reality surpassed my expectations on many occasions. One such moment was on a glacier wall that etched itself into my memory. As I ascended using the Peak & toe method, armed with two ice axes and boots fitted with crampons, the last night’s snowfall added an unexpected challenge. The wall, now adorned with a fresh layer of snow, began retaliating with every strike of my ice axe, creating a mesmerizing but tricky dance between man and mountain.
Halfway up the wall, standing at around 8-10 meters, nature decided to throw in an unexpected twist. The snow clung to my glasses, obscuring my vision, and suddenly, I found myself technically blind on the icy canvas. Panic set in, and I urgently shouted, “I can’t see anything! Please, belay me down.” However, for some reason, my plea seemed lost in the mountain winds. The inability of my teammates to comprehend my situation amplified my panic, highlighting a crucial realization – adventure sports can transform even the smallest gear glitch, like snow on glasses and weak eyesight, into significant hurdles. This unexpected encounter underscored the importance of adaptability and quick thinking in the unpredictable embrace of the mountains..
Every single detail in the course, whether it was learning how to navigate rocks and ice or understanding medical procedures and rescue techniques, played a super important role in turning us from beginners into skilled mountaineers. Think of it like solving a giant puzzle—each lesson was like a puzzle piece falling into its perfect spot, creating this big picture of mountaineering know-how.
During the Basic Mountaineer Course at HMI, we didn’t just learn about climbing mountains; we became tough cookies, both mentally and physically. Picture this: the journey was tough, doubts sneaked in like unexpected guests, but the realization of how crucial the course was acted like a guiding light. It was a whole month of pushing ourselves beyond what we thought were our limits, discovering hidden strengths we didn’t know we had. In a nutshell, it was like unlocking superpowers, but instead of capes, we had CRAMPONS!… and other gears, of course.
Amidst the peaks and valleys, we weren’t just a batch of trainees; we were ropes, groups of six diverse individuals bound by a shared passion. From different states, backgrounds, and professions, we became comrades in adversity, supporting, encouraging, and forming friendships that transcended the boundaries of the course.
The echoes of the Basic Mountaineer Course at HMI continue to reverberate. Beyond the technical prowess gained, the course reshaped my approach to leadership, trek guiding, and life’s subsequent challenges. The mental resilience fostered amidst the peaks became an invaluable asset in navigating the crests and troughs that followed. In the grand tapestry of mountaineering, mental strength reigns supreme. As the course concluded, some trainees faltered, worn down by the mental strain. Yet, the journey begins with mental fortitude.
The institute provides the essentials; you bring the passion. Pack basic clothing; the institute equips you with the rest. From down jackets to crampons, helmets to ropes, the arsenal of ascent is at your disposal.
As the curtain falls on this month-long saga, HMI emerges not just as an institute but as an immersive experience. The breathtaking campus, the looming presence of Kangchenjunga, seasoned instructors, insightful classes, delectable food, camaraderie forged in adversity, and friendships that stand the test of time – these are the threads that weave the tapestry of the Basic Mountaineer Course at HMI.
Lost weight, aching shoulders, and a slightly darker complexion bear witness to the physical toll, but the memories etched in the corridors of HMI are a testament to a month that was not just educational but a symphony of inspiration, practicality, and sheer joy. In the grand scheme of life, those days at HMI stand as a pinnacle, a reminder that the pursuit of heights is not just about conquering mountains but discovering the peaks within ourselves.
